What Does a Home Inspection Consist Of?

If you are buying a home for the first time, the inspection period can feel like a black box. You accepted an offer, your agent told you to schedule an inspection, and now a stranger is going to walk through your potential house and generate a report that could affect whether you proceed, negotiate, or walk away.

Understanding what the inspection actually covers — and what it does not — helps you know which findings are significant, which are normal wear, and what questions to ask.

The Scope of a Standard Buyer's Inspection

A licensed home inspector evaluates the visible, accessible components of a property. They follow a systematic walk-through that covers the exterior, structure, major mechanical systems, and interior living spaces. The inspection is visual — they do not move furniture, dismantle systems, or lift flooring. They report what they observe and what it implies about the condition and expected service life of the components.

The standard for home inspectors in the US is set by InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors) and ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors). Both publish Standards of Practice that define what inspectors are required to evaluate. Canadian inspectors follow similar provincial standards. UK surveyors operate under RICS standards. AU/NZ building inspectors follow state and national standards under the Australian Standard AS 4349.1.

A typical inspection for a three-bedroom home takes two to three hours on site and produces a written report with photographs within 24 hours.

What a Home Inspection Covers

1. Roofing

The inspector evaluates the roof covering material (asphalt shingles, tile, metal, flat membrane), estimated age, and condition. They look for:

• Missing, cracked, curling, or blistering shingles
• Granule loss visible in gutters (indicates end-of-life asphalt shingles)
• Flashing condition around chimneys, vents, and roof penetrations
• Evidence of past repairs or patchwork
• Gutter attachment, debris accumulation, and downspout discharge direction
• Visible sagging or structural deformation in the roofline

If the roof pitch and material allow safe access, the inspector may walk it. Otherwise they inspect from a ladder at the eave or use binoculars. Inspectors are not required to walk roofs they judge unsafe to traverse.

2. Exterior

The exterior section covers everything on the outside of the house:

• Siding and cladding condition (wood rot, damaged panels, paint failure, missing caulk)
• Grading — whether the ground slopes toward or away from the foundation (negative grading causes basement water problems)
• Driveway and walkway condition
• Decks, porches, and attached structures (handrail stability, ledger board attachment, post base condition)
• Window and door condition from outside
• Chimney (visible condition, flashing, mortar joint integrity)

3. Foundation and Structure

The foundation section is among the most consequential. The inspector looks at:

• Foundation type (poured concrete, concrete block, stone, brick, slab)
• Visible cracks and their pattern (vertical hairline cracks from normal shrinkage versus horizontal cracks indicating hydrostatic pressure)
• Evidence of moisture intrusion — efflorescence, water staining, tide marks
• Floor framing visible in the basement or crawlspace — joist condition, signs of rot, insect damage, prior repairs

The inspector will also observe whether interior doors stick or swing on their own (potential indicators of foundation movement) and whether floors feel bouncy or soft (possible subfloor or joist issues).

4. Basement and Crawlspace

If the home has a basement, the inspector assesses:

• Signs of water intrusion (past or present)
• Visible plumbing and condition of waste lines
• Evidence of sump pump and whether it has a battery backup
• Insulation and vapor barrier (crawlspaces)
• Evidence of pest damage or infestation

Crawlspaces are inspected by entering them if they meet minimum clearance requirements and are dry enough to access safely.

5. Electrical System

The electrical section covers:

• The service entry — where the utility connects to the home
• The main electrical panel — brand, service capacity (100-amp or 200-amp), breaker condition, evidence of amateur modification, double-tapped breakers
• Visible wiring type (copper, aluminum, knob-and-tube)
• GFCI outlets in bathrooms, kitchen, garage, and exterior (code requires these near water sources)
• AFCI protection in bedrooms (required in newer construction)
• Functioning of a representative sample of outlets, switches, and ceiling fixtures

Inspectors will flag known hazardous panel brands (Federal Pacific Stab-Lok, Zinsco, Challenger), aluminum branch circuit wiring, knob-and-tube wiring, and insufficient service capacity.

6. Plumbing

The plumbing section covers:

• Water supply pipe material (copper, CPVC, PVC, galvanized steel, polybutylene)
• Waste and drain pipe material (PVC, ABS, cast iron)
• Water pressure (tested by running multiple fixtures simultaneously)
• Water heater — age, condition, proper connections, TPR (temperature pressure relief) valve and discharge tube
• Visible drainage performance
• Signs of past or present leaks — staining, corrosion, water damage under sinks
• Sewer cleanout location (inspectors note it but typically recommend a separate sewer scope for older homes)

7. HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning)

The HVAC section covers:

• Furnace or heat pump — age (from data plate), visible condition, filter status, evidence of condensate overflow or rust
• Air conditioning condenser — age, refrigerant type, visible condition
• Air distribution — evidence of functioning registers, return air, visible ductwork condition
• Thermostat function
• Ventilation — bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans (and whether they actually exhaust to the exterior)
• Fireplace and chimney if gas-connected (inspector verifies damper function and visible condition; separate chimney sweep/inspection often recommended for wood-burning fireplaces)

8. Insulation and Attic

The attic section is often where inspectors find significant issues:

• Insulation type and depth (fiberglass batts, blown-in cellulose, spray foam, vermiculite)
• Ventilation — adequate ridge and soffit vents prevent heat and moisture buildup
• Evidence of moisture, mold, or mildew on sheathing (common when exhaust fans terminate in the attic rather than the exterior)
• Visible roof structure — rafters, trusses, sheathing condition
• Evidence of pest intrusion (squirrel, bird, rodent entry points)

9. Interior

The interior section covers every room in the house:

• Walls, ceilings, and floors — cracking, staining, sagging, evidence of repairs
• Windows — function (open, close, lock), seal failure (fogged double-pane glass), visible damage
• Doors — proper operation, latching, locking
• Stairs and railings — balusters, handrail security
• Kitchen — appliance function (if applicable), sink and faucet condition, under-cabinet plumbing
• Bathrooms — shower and tub condition, grout and caulk, ventilation, toilet stability

What the Inspection Does Not Cover

Hidden areas. Anything behind finished walls, under insulation, or under floor coverings is not evaluated because the inspector cannot see it without destructive access.

Environmental testing. Mold, asbestos, radon, lead paint, and well/septic testing are all separate specialties. If any of these are concerns, they require separate specialists.

Sewer lines. Most inspectors recommend a separate sewer scope ($150-$250) for homes built before 1980, as cast iron waste lines can fail internally without visible evidence above ground.

Pests. Termite and other pest inspections are typically performed by separate licensed pest control operators, not general home inspectors. In some markets (California, Southeast US), lenders require a separate WDO (wood destroying organism) report.

What You Receive After the Inspection

The written report typically includes:

• Summary of findings by category (Defects, Safety Concerns, Maintenance Items)
• Photographs of each noted item
• Written description of observed condition
• Recommendations (repair, further evaluation, monitor, maintenance)

Reports range from 30 to 80+ pages depending on the inspector and the home's complexity. A thorough report on an older home will be longer — do not interpret length as a sign the house is a disaster. Volume reflects thoroughness and documentation, not severity.

Being Present During the Inspection

Attend the inspection if at all possible. Walk with the inspector as they go through each area and ask questions in real time. Reading a 60-page report without having seen the components firsthand is much harder to interpret. Inspectors who are comfortable with buyers present (most are) will explain what they are looking at and why they are noting it as they go.

Before the inspection appointment, walk through the home yourself using a structured checklist. The Home Inspection Checklist is organized room-by-room and system-by-system — exactly the sequence the inspector will follow — with severity ratings that help you understand which items require immediate attention versus which are routine maintenance. Using it before the inspector arrives means you go into the inspection with specific questions rather than starting from scratch.

The Bottom Line

A standard buyer's inspection covers the roof, exterior, foundation, basement or crawlspace, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, insulation, attic, and all interior rooms. It takes two to three hours and produces a written report within 24 hours. It is a visual assessment — it cannot see through walls or confirm conditions in areas the inspector cannot access.

The inspection contingency period exists to give you time to review the report, commission any follow-up specialist evaluations (mold, sewer scope, structural engineer), and decide how to proceed with your purchase. Use it fully.