Home Inspection Checklist for Buying a House

The inspection contingency window is typically seven to fourteen days after your offer is accepted. During that period, you hire a professional inspector, attend the inspection, review the report, and decide whether to proceed, negotiate, or walk away.

The checklist below serves two purposes: a triage tool you can use when viewing a property before making an offer, and a preparation guide so you know exactly which systems to focus on during the formal professional inspection. Most first-time buyers spend open houses evaluating finishes; this framework redirects your attention to what actually matters.

Exterior and Grounds

Water is the root cause of most structural claims. Evaluate water management before anything else.

Grading. The soil should slope away from the house in all directions — ideally six inches of drop over ten horizontal feet. If the ground slopes toward the foundation, every rainfall drives water against the basement wall.

Downspouts. Downspouts should discharge at least five feet from the foundation. A downspout terminating at the base of the house concentrates roof runoff directly against the foundation.

Siding clearance. At least six inches of clearance should exist between the siding or wood trim and the soil. Contact with soil creates a path for moisture and subterranean termites.

Exterior cracks. Stair-step cracking through brick or block mortar joints indicates differential settlement. This is more serious than vertical hairline cracks in poured concrete, which are typically normal shrinkage.

Foundation

Poured concrete walls. Vertical hairline cracks are usually cosmetic. Diagonal cracks at corners suggest settlement. Horizontal cracks in the upper third of a basement wall are the most critical — they indicate hydrostatic pressure pushing the wall inward.

Door test. Interior doors that stick or fail to latch are often an early symptom of foundation movement. Take this seriously if the seller mentions doors have recently started sticking.

Roof

From the street. The roof ridge line should be straight. A sag in the center — called a saddleback — indicates either rafter failure or the removal of load-bearing walls inside.

Granule loss. Look in the gutters of asphalt shingle roofs. Sand-like granules indicate the shingles are nearing end of life. Bald or shiny patches mean the asphalt is exposed to UV and actively deteriorating.

Flashing. Excessive roof cement (black tar patches) at chimneys and vents signals that flashing was not properly installed or has failed. Water has likely entered at these points.

Electrical

Panel brand. Open the electrical panel and check the brand. Federal Pacific Electric (labeled "Stab-Lok") and Zinsco panels are known fire hazards — breakers in these models are prone to failing to trip during overcurrent events. This is a serious finding regardless of the home's age.

Service capacity. A 100-amp main breaker is considered inadequate for modern usage. A 200-amp service is the current standard. Upgrading costs $3,000 to $5,000.

Double-tapped breakers. Two wires on a single breaker terminal is a code violation. It signals that circuits were added without adding breakers — a sign of unpermitted electrical work.

Plumbing

Pipe materials. Galvanized steel (silver-grey, pre-1960 homes) rusts internally and restricts flow. Polybutylene (grey plastic, 1978–1995 homes) is prone to internal failure from chlorine degradation and is a major insurance liability. Both warrant flagging.

Water heater age. Average service life is 10 to 15 years. A unit past 15 years should be budgeted for near-term replacement. Rust streaks at the bottom or rust flakes at the top indicate the tank is failing.

Sewer scope. For homes built before 1980, a sewer camera inspection ($150–$200 add-on) is worth ordering separately. Failing cast iron or clay tile sewer lines are one of the most expensive hidden defects in older homes — replacements run $5,000 to $20,000.

HVAC

Age. Find the data plate on the furnace and outdoor condenser unit. The serial number typically encodes the manufacture year in the first two to four digits. A furnace older than 20 years or an air conditioner older than 15 years is near statistical end of life.

Refrigerant type. Check the label on the outdoor AC unit. R-22 (Freon) cannot be legally recharged — systems using it require full replacement. Budget $8,000 to $14,000 for a combined furnace and AC system.

Interior

Ceiling stains. Brown stains with a defined edge indicate a past or active roof or plumbing leak. Stains at exterior walls often trace to flashing failure.

Basement moisture. White mineral deposits (efflorescence) along the base of basement walls mean water has been moving through the masonry. A persistent musty smell indicates ongoing moisture — not a past event.

Smell test. A musty smell suggests microbial activity. A sewage smell near floor drains suggests a plumbing vent issue. Heavy air fresheners in multiple rooms warrant suspicion.

What to Do With Your Findings

The goal is not to generate an exhaustive repair list — it is to prioritize. Health, safety, and structural findings deserve negotiation. Cosmetic items and normal wear-and-tear are generally the buyer's responsibility.

Categorize findings into three buckets: items to ask the seller to address, items you will handle post-closing but want reflected in the price, and items you are accepting. The inspection contingency is the single best leverage point in the entire purchase. Use it deliberately, not emotionally.

The Home Inspection Checklist at firsthometoolkit.com/home-inspection-checklist/ covers every system above in greater depth — with red flag severity ratings, repair cost estimates, pipe material identification guides, and negotiation scripts to turn findings into credits at closing.