What to Expect During a Home Inspection

A home inspection is a systematic, visual evaluation of the physical condition of a property. For most buyers, it is the most informative single event in the entire purchase process — and one of the last opportunities to catch serious problems before the transaction becomes final. Knowing what to expect beforehand helps you use the time well and understand the report when it arrives.

How Long Does a Home Inspection Take?

Plan for two to four hours, depending on the size and age of the property. A 1,200 square foot condo might take two hours; a 3,000 square foot house built in 1960 might take four or more. Older homes take longer because there is more to evaluate — more deferred maintenance, more aged systems, more potential issues with older electrical wiring and plumbing materials.

Do not schedule anything else during this window. Rushing through the final forty-five minutes of an inspection is how attics and crawl spaces get glossed over — which is exactly where significant moisture, pest, or insulation issues often hide.

What Does a Home Inspector Actually Check?

A professional home inspector performs a visual inspection of all accessible systems and components. The specific scope is defined by the inspector's professional association — either InterNACHI or ASHI — but in practice, most inspections cover the following:

Structural components. Foundation, framing, floors, walls, and roof structure. The inspector evaluates foundation cracks, signs of differential settlement, and structural movement. They check the roof ridge line from the exterior, inspect the attic for rafter damage, and test floors for excessive bounce that might indicate compromised subflooring.

Roofing. The inspector evaluates the roof covering (shingles, metal, tile), gutters, downspouts, flashing at chimneys and vents, and the general water management of the exterior. Granule loss in asphalt shingles, missing or cracked flashing, and improper gutter discharge are among the most commonly flagged issues.

Electrical systems. The main service panel is opened and evaluated for panel brand, service capacity (measured in amps), proper breaker sizing, and visible code violations such as double-tapped breakers (two wires sharing a single breaker slot). The inspector will test outlets for proper grounding, verify GFCI protection near water sources, and look for amateur wiring in finished spaces. Certain panel brands — Federal Pacific Electric (Stab-Lok) and Zinsco, in particular — are known fire hazards and represent one of the most serious findings an inspection can produce.

Plumbing. Visible supply and waste pipes, water pressure, water heater condition and age, and drainage. Galvanized steel and polybutylene pipes have known failure modes and are flagged routinely. In pre-1980 homes, inspectors often recommend a sewer camera scope — old cast iron waste lines are prone to internal corrosion and collapse.

HVAC systems. Heating and cooling equipment is operated and evaluated. The inspector will locate the data plate on the furnace and air conditioner and decode the serial number to determine the age of each unit — a furnace that is 20 years old has reached the end of its typical service life and should be budgeted for replacement. Refrigerant type matters too: systems using R-22 (Freon) cannot be legally recharged and require full replacement.

Insulation and ventilation. The attic is inspected for insulation depth, ventilation, moisture, and evidence of pest activity or prior roof leaks. Improper attic ventilation causes moisture buildup and premature shingle aging.

Doors, windows, and interior. Doors and windows are opened and closed to check for binding — a sign of structural movement. Water intrusion around window frames and ceiling corners is noted.

Do Home Inspectors Check for Lead Pipes?

Inspectors will note the material of visible plumbing, but lead pipe identification specifically involves some complications. Lead supply lines were common in homes built before 1986, but many were replaced over the decades since. In some municipalities, the risk of lead is primarily in the public service line between the street and the house, not the interior plumbing — which may not be visible during a standard inspection.

If the home was built before 1986 and lead pipes are a specific concern, ask the inspector to comment on what they observe. Your municipality may also have records of water service line materials. For older homes in cities with known lead pipe issues, a water quality test is worth the relatively modest cost.

What Does the Inspection Report Look Like?

Most inspectors deliver a digital report within 24 hours. Reports typically include photographs alongside written descriptions and severity ratings. The volume — often 40 to 80 pages — can alarm first-time buyers. Read it with your agent. Ask the inspector to clarify anything you do not understand. Focus on items flagged as safety hazards or significant defects, not on the weight of every minor observation.

Why Is a Home Inspection Important?

A house is the largest purchase most people make, and it is not a liquid asset. A professional inspection costs $400 to $800. A failed sewer line can cost $10,000 to $20,000. A furnace on R-22 refrigerant is a mandatory replacement worth $8,000 to $14,000. A hazardous electrical panel runs $2,500 to $4,000 to replace. Any single finding of that magnitude either gives you negotiating leverage or tells you this particular purchase is not right at the current price.

What the Inspector Will Not Cover

Professional inspections are visual and non-invasive. Inspectors will not cut into walls, move furniture, remove ceiling tiles, or operate systems that show signs of damage. They will note accessible areas only.

Certain specialized inspections fall outside the scope of a general inspection and require separate professionals:

• Sewer scope (camera inspection of the waste line) — strongly recommended for pre-1980 homes
• Radon testing — a low-cost add-on, critical in certain geographic areas
• Mold testing — separate from a visual mold observation
• Chimney inspection by a certified chimney sweep
• Pool and spa inspection
• Oil tank testing for underground storage tanks

When the general inspector mentions any of these, take it seriously. They are not trying to generate additional fees — they are flagging areas where their scope ends and a specialist needs to take over.

The Home Inspection Checklist at firsthometoolkit.com/home-inspection-checklist/ is designed to help you know what to look for before the inspector even arrives. It covers all major systems with red flag indicators, a severity rating system, and repair cost ranges — so you arrive at the inspection informed rather than overwhelmed.