Common Repairs Needed After a Home Inspection (And What They Cost)

Your home inspection report just landed in your inbox and it is forty-seven pages long. There is a list of findings that ranges from "gutters need cleaning" to "evidence of past moisture intrusion in the crawl space." Your agent says to focus on the big items, but you are not sure what counts as big.

This post cuts through that confusion. Below is a breakdown of the repairs that appear most frequently on inspection reports, what they typically cost, and how to think about which ones are worth negotiating versus which ones you should plan to handle yourself after closing.

Why Not Every Finding Is a Repair Request

Home inspectors are paid to document everything they observe. That is their job, and a thorough inspector is doing you a favor by noting even minor issues. But a long report does not mean the home is in poor shape. It means the inspector did their job well.

The standard practice is to categorize findings into three buckets:

1. Safety issues — items that pose an immediate risk to occupants (exposed wiring, a cracked heat exchanger, a missing handrail on a steep staircase)
2. Major system failures or near-failures — items that would cost thousands to address and involve the structural components or primary mechanical systems
3. Normal wear — items that are cosmetic, minor, or expected given the home's age

Sellers are generally receptive to addressing the first two categories, especially in a buyer's market. The third category is rarely worth negotiating over and can make you appear difficult to work with.

The Repairs That Appear Most Often

Roofing Issues

Roof problems are among the most common inspection findings, and they sit across the spectrum from minor to severe.

What you might see: Missing or damaged shingles, granule loss on asphalt shingles, improper flashing around chimneys and vents, clogged gutters, soft spots indicating rot underneath.

Cost context: Replacing a handful of missing shingles might run a few hundred dollars. A full roof replacement, depending on the material and roof size, typically falls between $8,000 and $25,000. Flashing repairs are generally $200 to $500.

When to negotiate: If the inspection reveals that the roof is at or near the end of its service life, or if there is active water intrusion documented, this is a legitimate major-item request. A roof with five years of life left is not an emergency today, but it is a known large expense — requesting a price reduction or seller credit to account for it is reasonable.

HVAC Systems

Heating and cooling systems are inspected for basic function: does it turn on, does it heat and cool the space, are there obvious maintenance issues?

What you might see: Dirty filters (maintenance, not a defect), an aging unit near end of life, leaking refrigerant, a cracked heat exchanger in the furnace.

Cost context: An HVAC tune-up costs $75 to $150. Replacing a furnace runs $2,800 to $7,500; a central AC replacement is $4,000 to $8,000. A cracked heat exchanger is a safety issue — combustion gases can enter the living space.

When to negotiate: A cracked heat exchanger or refrigerant leak is a clear repair request. A fifteen-year-old unit that still works is trickier — a seller credit toward a home warranty covering mechanical systems is often the more practical ask.

Electrical Issues

Inspectors are not licensed electricians and will not open walls, but they will flag visible problems.

What you might see: Double-tapped breakers, aluminum wiring in homes from the 1960s and 1970s, outlets without GFCI protection in bathrooms and kitchens, an outdated fuse box, reversed polarity.

Cost context: Adding GFCI outlets throughout runs $200 to $500. Replacing a fuse box with a modern panel costs $2,000 to $4,000. Addressing aluminum wiring throughout an older home can run $5,000 or more.

When to negotiate: Any code violation or safety hazard identified by an electrician belongs on your repair request. Cosmetic electrical issues are not worth the friction.

Plumbing

What you might see: Active leaks under sinks, slow drains, water heaters past their service life (tank heaters typically last 8 to 12 years — the manufacture date is on the label), signs of moisture damage around fixtures, improper venting.

Cost context: Replacing a water heater runs $600 to $2,500 for a standard tank unit. If the inspector recommends a sewer scope and that scope reveals damage, sewer lateral replacement can cost $4,000 to $15,000.

When to negotiate: A nine-year-old water heater with problems is worth asking about. A confirmed sewer lateral issue is non-negotiable.

Foundation and Structural Issues

What you might see: Hairline vertical cracks in poured concrete (usually normal settling), horizontal cracks in block walls (a structural concern), stair-step cracks in brick (worth investigating), evidence of water intrusion in the basement or crawl space.

Cost context: Filling hairline cracks is a straightforward DIY repair. Addressing a bowing wall with carbon fiber straps runs $4,000 to $10,000. Major foundation stabilization with piers can exceed $20,000.

When to negotiate: Anything beyond minor settling cracks warrants a structural engineer consultation ($300 to $600) before closing. It either confirms the issue is minor or gives you the documentation to negotiate seriously.

Wood Rot and Pest Damage

What you might see: Rotted window sills, fascia boards, or deck boards; evidence of termite activity (mud tubes on the foundation, discarded wings, damaged wood that sounds hollow when tapped).

Cost context: Replacing isolated rotted wood runs a few hundred dollars in materials and labor. Termite treatment runs $400 to $2,000. If termites have caused structural damage, costs escalate quickly.

When to negotiate: Confirmed active termite presence is always a legitimate request. Many lenders — particularly those issuing FHA or VA loans — require a clear pest inspection before closing.

Prioritizing Your List

The most useful framework: ask what happens if each item is left unaddressed for two years. Does it get significantly worse, create a safety risk, or cost exponentially more to fix?

Roof leaks and moisture intrusion fall into this category — an unaddressed leak does not stay the same, it becomes a mold problem, then structural rot. Cosmetic issues — a cracked tile, a sticky door, peeling fence paint — do not compound. They are annoying but not urgent.

What Happens After the Inspection

Your agent submits a repair request or credit request to the seller. The seller can agree, counter, or decline. If they decline on a safety item, you may have the right to walk away and recover your earnest money, depending on your contract's inspection contingency language.

The inspection period is not the end of the maintenance story. Items that do not rise to the level of a negotiated repair — the aging water heater, the HVAC unit that passed but is ten years old — become your first-year maintenance priorities after closing. A documented system for tracking those items and scheduling the work keeps you ahead of failures rather than reacting to them.